Written by Leong Siok Hui on 17 Aug 2009
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In an era where everyone brazenly hitches a ride on the green bandwagon, the folks behind Nikoi Island are an aberration. When I asked Andrew Dixon, one of Nikoi's founders, about the resort's eco-friendly approaches, he says, "We take sustainable tourism seriously but avoid labelling or marketing ourselves as such." Dixon thinks, and rightly so, that these green labels have been bandied about by too many hoteliers who don't do much beyond asking guests to reuse towels or changing light bulbs.
To find out for myself, I took a ferry to Bintan Island, Indonesia, from Singapore's Tanah Merah terminal. From the fishing village of Kawal, I boarded a boat to "Eden", and in less than three hours I was on the island, a world away from bustling Singapore. A white sandy beach fringed by sparkling azure waters and a row of rustic thatched bungalows peeking out from a lush green forest greeted us in Nikoi. Wide grins on their faces, the resort staff scampered out to the arriving guests - yours truly and an American couple, Lara and Nick, who were on the same boat.
Barefoot luxury
After a zesty welcome drink at the Beach Bar, we were escorted to our beachfront bungalows. Fifteen two-storey beachfront houses, two dining rooms, four bars and two modest-sized swimming pools take up a third of the private island's 15-ha space. These one-, two- and three bedroom houses are amply spaced to give guests the privacy they seek. Currently, 10 houses are open to guests while the rest are due to be ready by the end of August. My one-bedroom bungalow is twice the size of my studio apartment in Kuala Lumpur. And how can you beat waking up to a view of the shimmering blue sea facing your king-size bed? Also, a 10-second skip from the room takes you to the crystal-clear sea for a snorkel or dip in the refreshing water.
At Nikoi, the first rule of thumb is to kick off your sandals and bury your toes in the soft sand as you saunter around the resort, minus the ugly concrete paths. And instinctively, you'd put your mobile phone in silent mode -- I did! -- lest the ringing ruins the tranquillity of the place. There's no Internet or TV here, making it a perfect getaway for busy urban folks.
Outdoor haven
Not surprisingly, natural heritage is Nikoi's calling card. Two-thirds of the island is thick forest, harbouring tall native Banyan trees and a variety of bird species. The owners have invited Singapore's leading naturalist, Subaraj Rajathurai, to survey the island's flora, fauna and coral reefs. Some of Nikoi's staffs are taking a keen interest in nature guiding.
Water-sport lovers have a field day taking the kayak or sailing boats (Lasers or a Nacra Catamaran) out to sea, paddle-boarding or spotting Nemo hiding in the anemone. On full moon nights, lucky guests may catch spotted turtles nesting on the beach.
Except for diving or excursions to nearby islands, all the sports activities are free of charge. Kids have a blast playing in the giant sandbox or frolicking in the shallow waters while watchful parents recline on deck chairs, sipping chilled margaritas and soaking in the sun. Nikoi's earnest and fun-loving staffs are great with the kids, sometimes giving parents a brief respite from demanding toddlers who can be a handful.
After a long day of playing under the sun, I looked forward to an Indonesian deep-pressure massage by one of the resident masseuses. She plopped a mattress in the bale bengong (rest pavilion) in front of the beach house and got to work. Originally from Bintan, Salmiah deftly kneaded my shoulders and back, unravelling the knots and letting the stress melt away. This coupled with the gentle brush of the sea breeze and soft hum of lapping waves, made me fall into a blissful stupor. Who says you need a fancy spa!
Holistic approach
Although Nikoi folks don't gloat about their green practices, discerning guests can spot the telltale signs. You can't miss the raw, rustic look of the structures - from the bars and the bales to the beach houses. The buildings are mostly handcrafted from driftwood. The 10-foot (3m) long dining table is shaped out of driftwood that Peter Timmer, the man behind Nikoi's building designs, found while fishing.
"It took us almost four days to tow it back across 150 miles (241km)," said Timmer who's from California. He was on the island when I visited. Timmer's roof design - a double-vaulted thatched roof that doubles up as a chimney stack, draws the hot air up and cools the houses. The alang-alang thatch roofs do not only lend a rustic feel but provides the cooling factor. The grass (Imperata cyclindrica) is sourced from nearby Teluk Bakau and Gesek, and helps supplement the locals' income.
With its open layout, each room has a wall with foldable, panelled glass door and large windows, allowing the sea breeze to waft through. In place of air-conditioning, a ceiling fan is cleverly installed beneath the mosquito net that drapes over the bed. In the chilly mornings, the solar-heated hot showers are a real treat. The biodegradable soaps and shampoos in refillable containers help minimise chemicals and waste.
All wastes are sorted and sent to Bintan for recycling. Twice a day, staffs comb the beach for litter that have floated from Bintan and other islands. CFL and LED bulbs light the rooms, dining areas and bars, minimising the use of electricity supplied by diesel generators. At night, torch lamps, using recycled cooking oil, light the resort and take a backseat to the black velvet sky lit by glittering stars.
Most guests rave about Nikoi's fresh and seasonal cuisines inspired by Indonesian recipes. To support the local economy, almost 100% of the food is sourced locally, from seafood and fruits to an assortment of veggies. I adored the simple recipes that highlight the freshness and real taste of food like crunchy salads tossed with tangy vinegar dressing, fresh barbecued seafood or veggies stir-fried with garlic. Foodstuff like beef, wine and cheeses are imported. Though the menus are fixed, the staffs will accommodate non-meat eaters. Breakfast is a simple affair of eggs, homemade muesli, breads and pastries and fruits with freshly squeezed juice, tea and coffee. Organic waste is fed to the fish.
Nikoi owners believe "responsible'' tourism isn't just about being eco-friendly but also about taking care of the local community. The island hires local staff and its manager, Mansud, comes from Kawal. The company recently roped in a fulltime Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) manager to identify and run its community development programmes. Staffs are encouraged to learn new skills to enable them to move from entry-level positions.
"Here, we are like a family and we can communicate directly and freely with the owners," says Mansud, 37, who worked with several large resorts in Bintan before joining Nikoi in 2007. Apart from a basic salary above minimum wage, staffs get free room and board, uniform, medical allowance and collective tips. (See grey box, Behind the scenes.)
Barely two years old, Nikoi has already chalked up quite a reputation. The weekends are booked at least two months in advance. Almost all guest reviews are positive and gushing. On my visit in April, despite the full occupancy, I only spotted a sprinkling of guests at the dining room, bars or on the beach. Yes, it's so easy to get used to the luxury of having the whole island to just a few of us.
For sure, Nikoi's charms - the raw edge and natural beauty - will lure folks back again and again.
Behind the scenes
Eight kilometres east of Bintan Island, Indonesia, Nikoi, a private island resort, was started by a group of expatriates in Singapore who were disenchanted with the standard of holiday accommodation in Asia.
"They were either flea-ridden shacks or opulently garish five-star hotels with marble floors and crystal chandeliers. Cultural sensitivity, sense of place and simple luxuries were unheard of," says one of the founders, Australian Andrew Dixon.
"Also, there are few places you can go to without having to catch a plane in Singapore."
From the start, the owners knew they wanted to tread lightly and preserve Nikoi's natural heritage.
"We realised we were building on a very pretty and pristine environment, so we made the buildings fit the natural landscape," says Peter Timmer, one of Nikoi's partners and the man behind the designs.
To minimise impact, no tree was felled -- except the dead or dying ones -- and no heavy machinery was brought in. The owners even planted more indigenous trees on the island.
"It took us three to four years to build the initial six houses," says Timmer, 55. "It's so time consuming because everything is handmade. The houses' unique design is a blend of Japanese, Indonesian and Filipino influences," Timmer adds.
To protect the environment, Dixon feels it's only logical to keep the development small. Plus it's economical. Building materials are sourced locally and all the tradesmen are Indonesian.
"It was a big decision for us not to rely on air-conditioning. Lots of people say 'You're mad! You're not going to be able to sell it and charge those kinds of rates," says Dixon. But the owners stuck to their guns. It turned out the lack of air-conditioning halved the island's electricity demand.
Room to do more
But there is a lot more to do in Nikoi.
The island's water supply is drawn from wells, and drinking water is bought from Bintan. During my visit, the drinking water in the guestrooms came in plastic mineral bottles. But the company is in the process of bottling their own drinking water in reusable glass bottles. Occasionally, guests provide ideas on how to do things better.
"Just last week, I met a UK professor who spends lots of time working in developing countries, helping them improve their water sources and sanitation," says Dixon during our interview in Singapore. "He helped identify a few areas where we could make improvements."
Nikoi also places a lot of importance on fostering a good relationship with the local community.
"We've always wanted to be accepted by the local community, and for them to see us as a contributor instead of just someone who's taking things away," adds Dixon. "We need each other."
"But we don't want to do handouts. We want to help the communities build businesses we can support; for example, get the locals to grow organic vegetables to supply to our kitchen."
To date, Nikoi has some plans lined up for the community. They are about to open a children's library with English and Bahasa Indonesia books for the kids in Teluk Bakau, Bintan, where the company's operational base is located.
"We're soon going to start a sailing programme for the children, and start teaching basic hospitality skills to give the community an opportunity to learn some skills," says Dixon. "It's also a way for us to get closer to the community." Nikoi is also keen to train the community to make products they will buy for their island like soaps, arts and crafts.
As Dixon points out, "These are all important steps to gaining the trust and confidence of the local community."
Yes, the island still has a long way to go to becoming totally sustainable, but it's already setting great examples for the bigger resorts in nearby Bintan.
For more info: visit The Nikoi
Rethink Travel
This article is part of our Rethink Travel series.
In 2008, Wild Asia started an exciting year-long collaboration with the Malaysian national newspaper, The Star. The Weekender section ran a series of monthly articles on responsible tourism under the theme, Rethink Travel. The aim was to promote sustainable practices in Asian travel destinations and challenge common perceptions and ideas on travel.
Other features in this series:
Write to Leong Siok HuiLeong Siok Hui
Leong Siok Hui writes for The Star Weekender. The Star is Malaysia's largest English daily newspaper.... more inside »
Leong Siok Hui also contributed 5 other articles in this section:
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