A candidate for Wild Asia's 2008 Responsible Tourism Awards, RICK GREGORY discovers insights into the culture and crafts of Thailand's Isan people at Lamai Homestay, in the middle of the rice fields.

Written by Rick Gregory on 25 Jun 2009 with 0 comments. Be the first!

Golden beaches, forested mountains and neon flashing nightlife conjure up the normal images of Thailand tourism. Famous full moon parties and sexy strip clubs consume most tourists' dollars and vacation days for those looking for a fast fling through Thai culture.

Except that is not the real Thailand.

For those looking to get into the heart of the country, get away from urban overindulgence, away from posh beaches and head to northeastern Thailand, where rice stalks wave like an enormous green sea. Here everything is stripped to the basics of life.

Dropped along the highway off a bus from Korat, an air-cooled truck follows the dusty dirt roads weaving around built up bunds that keep water in the paddy fields. Flat as far as the horizon, no forest hides this landscape that grows rice for the rest of the nation. Nothing obscures your vision except a few cows, chickens and clumps of houses.

Adorned with colorful Thai art, handsome wooden gazebos and a courtyard fountain, Lamai Homestay exudes a fanciful flare among a community of farmers and shopkeepers. Run by Lamai and Jimmy, a Thai-Welsh couple, the pulse of the village beats in every experience at this homestay.

Lamai, a quiet and confident guide, grew up in Ko Pet and everyone knows her and her family. Every visitor gets a village tour upon arrival. And walking with Lamai gets you honorary residency. Whether walking into school classrooms, chatting with elders or visiting homes to watch craft making, you never feel like an intruder. This is a special quality hard to find in most ecotourism sites.

As Jimmy told us, "There are no tourists, everyone is either part of Lamai's or my family."

In contrast with all the glitter of Bangkok and exoticness of elephant treks, Ko Pet offers true grit. Villagers eke out a living by growing rice, foraging for frogs and forest mushrooms, fishing with bamboo sticks, spinning silk and even assembling factory goods at home. After the rice harvest, the nine-month off-season is spent gaining alternative income.

No doubt the lure of ready cash in the bright lights of Bangkok, Pattaya and other entertainment centres snares too many young Isan girls and boys to join in the party scene. Without education or business opportunities back home, there will always be a steady supply of new go-go dancers over rice field workers.

Emulating the true spirit of responsible tourism, the Lamai Homestay demonstrates a brave and bold venture. Not too many businesses would choose the poorest and least visited region of one of Southeast Asia's best travel destinations.

Of the estimated 90 families in the village over 20 are involved with activities of the homestay. Besides rotating village women as employees, others sell handicrafts such as silk cloth, baskets and woven mats. Local workmen built the main house and chalets from local materials, making wooden furniture and pottery and even roofing and flooring tiles. Visitors donate books to the school and give money for sports gear and audio/visual equipment.

Despite the harsh conditions, the Isan people thrive on traditions. Rural life centers on food, clothing, ceramics and chitchat. Jimmy and Lamai guide visitors on several different tours that spread economic benefits to neighbouring communities.

By showcasing off-the-beaten path locations, tourists learn to appreciate the rural arts. See silk weaving from mulberry leaves and worm cultivation to spinning wheel threading and colorful loom mosaics. Sample Isan cuisine or explore the terrain and gather your own wild food. Or just marvel at the hard work of rice cultivation and observe the extraordinary scenes of people living off the land.

Responsible tourism is about giving back. And certainly the efforts of Lamai Homestay exemplify this principle. But the real rewards remain with travelers to this hard way of Thai life. Every guest becomes part of the community, if only for a day or two. Every visit to a homemade silk factory is sincere because villagers make silk cloth for their own use first, not just for tourists to buy.

In the heart of Isan country life beats for real. And that is worth the detour from southern beaches and northern hill tribes.

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