South of Java and way off the northwestern coast of Australia lies Christmas Island, RICK GREGORY discovers one of nature's magical places hidden amid the expanse of the Indian Ocean.

Written by Rick Gregory on 9 Aug 2006 with 0 comments. Be the first!

In the deep blue of the Indian Ocean, Christmas Island emerges as an oceanic oasis set amid a liquid, not desert, landscape. Located 200 km south of Java and over 2000 km from Perth, this remote dot in the sea sits on the geographical fringes of Asia and Australia. The island remained unsettled until the late 1800s, its rugged coastline fortressed by steep limestone cliffs serving as natural barriers against occupation.

This isolation gives Christmas Island its distinct character. Only a limited number of plants and animals managed to overcome the distance between the island and other landmasses. And only a few visitors - less than 1000 - find their way each year to this unique haven to discover its restricted but amazing natural diversity.

Over 60% of the island (comparable in size to Tioman Island in Malaysia or one-fifth the size of Singapore) is protected as a national park that harbours tropical rainforests dominated by 13 species of land crabs that scurry across the forest floor; a reef ecosystem that tightly hugs the coastline before a sheer drop exposes a spectacular coral wall; a variety of sea birds, including the endemic Frigatebird and the rare Abbott's Booby, the island being its only known nesting site; a small sampling of snakes and geckos; no amphibians; and an volcanic topography with plenty of subterranean caves accessed from land punctures and sea wall slits.

Named by a British seaman on Christmas Day 1643, today the island is home to about 1200 Chinese, Malays and ethnic Europeans, who are now mostly Australian residents. Many arrived with phosphate mining and to work the waterfront to ship fertilizer to export markets. In 1958 the island was finally taken over by Australia after decades of British and Singaporean administration and the invasion of Japanese troops during WWII. This cultural hodgepodge of diverse peoples spices up the flavour of the island and adds to the far away feeling of being in an exotic outpost.

After shaking off the feeling of being abandoned in the middle of the ocean, you finally concentrate on the beauty of the island itself. At first a week (flights to and from Singapore are only on Thursdays) seems way too long to spend on this island oddity, but every day offers new adventures. Here is a smattering of outdoor action - on land, in water and underground - that's up for grabs on Christmas Island:

Boobies, Noddies and Bosuns

Bird enthusiasts are already aware of the special species seen on Christmas Island. Seabirds nest in the island's forested habitats, an oasis of green surrounded by the big blue ocean. The graceful flight of angle-winged frigatebirds and the darting movement of boobies skimming the surface of the sea water is on constant exhibition. During courtship, male frigatebirds puff out a handsome red throat sac, only seen during mating, to attract partners. And the elegant white and black Abbott's Booby is a rare sight to behold since it is only known to nest on Christmas Island. Brown Boobies and Brown Noddies nest on the ground near sea cliffs, where it's easy to see them up close with their young.

The local favourite is the Golden Bosun or White-tailed Tropicbird. White body plummage and a tail streamer sprayed with a glint of gold shimmers as this beautiful bird glides over the lower terrace in aerial grandeur. Another aerial artist is the Silver Bosun or Red-tailed Tropicbird, its red tail streamer serving as an easy mark for identification. Other bird sightings to encounter in inland habitats include the iridescent and endemic Emerald Dove, the elusive Hawk Owl, and the Christmas Island Goshawk and Australian Kestral, the island's two raptor species.

A notable feature of Christmas Island bird life is their lack of shyness. Due possibly to limited encounters with humans and predators, approaching these wild birds up close is surprisingly easy to do and offers great photographic opportunities.

Crabs, Crabs Everywhere

The most intriguing residents of Christmas Island are crabs. Red, Blue, Purple, Brown, Robber, Mottled, Jackson's, and White-stripe crabs, along with Little, Red, and Yellow nippers, not to forget Horn-eyed ghost and Smooth-handed ghost crabs and three species of Hermit crabs - Purple, Red and Tawny - make their mark on the terrain. There are roughly 120 million crabs scavenging on fallen leaves and fruits, tilling the soil and recycling nutrients in the rainforest. Evolved from sea borne ancestors, no other place on the planet displays such abundance and diversity of land crabs.

Red crabs are the stars. They live in burrows in the forest or deep crevices in rocky outcrops; one crab per chamber. During the breeding season (coinciding with the wet season from October to December), these bright red crustaceans, made mostly of legs attached to a carapace, exit their shady homes and march by the millions over roads, buildings, golf course, and cliffs to mate near the shoreline and deposit eggs in the sea for the next generation. One of nature's unique events, witnessing the Red crab migration rates as a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Reef Menagerie and Drop-Off Delights

A volcanic tip surfacing from deep below, reefs in shallow waters (8 metres) edge along the island's boundaries before plunging, just 20 metres from shore, along coral incrusted walls to depths of 200 metres. Luckily this marine ecosystem caters to everyone, from a novice snorkeller to an expert diver. The shallow waters at Flying Fish Cove blanket an amazing array of fan and plate corals, speckled with a few soft coral patches, that seem endless. Tropical fish such as schools of blue and gold fusilers, triggerfish, trevally, solitary puffer fish, and even a few techni-coloured clams grace the coral gardens. Divers can choose from a menu of over three dozen sites that offer spectacular wall dives, adventurous cave dives, and wreck and night dives.

On occasion green turtles, reef sharks, hammerheads and whale sharks are spotted, the latter appearing during the crab migration when eggs are plentiful in near the cove. Like manta rays and spinner dolphins, diving occurs all year round, the best waters from April to November.

Blowholes, Boardwalks and Beaches

Exploring the intricate terrain on Christmas Island is a personal nature quest. Crowds are rare, solitude is the norm. Road and trail access to cozy beaches and observation areas is well maintained with sturdy boardwalks and good sign directions. Head to any part of the island for interesting nature walks that allow you to absorb the island's calmness. On the east coast, walks at Lily Beach traverse over easy seaside bluffs, where brown boobies nest; while trekking the rainforest to Dolly Beach ends with a coconut palm laden shore, perfect for day trips. Just watch out for sneaky robber crabs looking to pinch any food available.

On the western end lies the Dales, a pleasant stroll through the rainforest. The path crosses over a series of small water courses full of crabs and offers insights into plant and animal species with informative signboards. Surging waves crashing against craggy limestone outcrops causes seawater to rise upwards through crevices in a watery explosion. Located on the south side, the Blowholes ominous dragon-breathing noise that announces the next splash to tourists getting too close to protect themselves from its powerful sprays.

The hardest part about Christmas Island is getting there. The best part is that the whole island is accessible to visitors. A 4WD vehicle gets you anywhere in a jiffy, and even without one most of the park sites are not difficult to reach. It is not the Galapagos, but naturalists "can observe the classic patterns of island colonisation, and their evolutionary implications."

It is a true oceanic odyssey that stays stuck in your mind. Christmas Island acts like the mythological sirens living on faraway, rocky islands that lure mariners with irresistible charm to their demise. Only this time the song does not lead to disaster, but a chance to discover a special ecological oasis with unparalleled natural allure. .