Escape the hubbub of city life and head out to Pahang's natural lake wilderness, where REZA AZMI discovers a wide variety of activities from fishing to birdwathching amid the folklore of the Orang Asli.

Written by Reza Azmi on 29 Apr 2002 with 0 comments. Be the first!

Man-made lakes are common in Malaysia; for some, they are the only lakes to be encountered. They are weekend escapes from our daily routine; they are used as fishing ponds, or simply play-spaces for water skiing or jet skis. Not too far away from Kuantan (Pahang) though, is a natural lake with a wilderness that is little known, yet rich in wildlife and is the source of many legends that have endured since the early dawn of civilisation in Malaysia. This lake is called, Tasik (lake) Chini.

The Tasik Chini wetlands, about 100 km southwest of Kuantan, covers approximately 5, 000 ha of wilderness. Here, you will find 12 interconnected lakes, which eventually flow into the Sungai Pahang, the largest river in Peninsular Malaysia. Bordering the fringes of Tasik Chini are forests that are rare in Malaysia, and are one of its most threatened habitats. Only trees and shrubs survive that are able to tolerate long periods of flooding. In the low-lying areas of the lakes, extensive stands of rassau (screwpines), a Pandanus, have developed. The rassau pandans are related to the pandans used in our local cuisine. The rassau pandan is both common in these lakes, and is also used extensively by the local indigenous community, the jakun orang aslis. The leaves are used to thatch roofs, woven into mats, baskets or bags. The fruits of these pandans are also said to be edible.

The lotus plant has also been introduced into Tasik Chini (when and by who, no one knows); in the shallower margins of the lake these large floating leaves are common. Between June and September, the pink floral bloom of the lotus plant delights many visitors. The floating bladderwort, a common aquatic plant, is another curious botanical gem. These plants form a thick tangle of vegetation just below the surface of the water. The pretty little yellow flowers, are designed to trap small unsuspecting insects that are attracted to the flower. Once trapped, they will be slowly digested and provide food for these hungry plants.

Fishing

For the keen angler, another carnivorous species is well known here, the toman or snakehead fish (Channa micropeltes). These fish are solitary hunters and will attack fish, frogs, snakes or even the carelessly suspended hand in the water! A common freshwater fish of lakes, the toman is a fish worthy of the sport angler. Usually caught by casting a false lure or whole-fish bait, these powerful fish will give even the best angler a good fight.

Birdwatching

Those interested in bird watching will enjoy exploring Tasik Chini. Over 200 bird species have been recorded here. The best birding is along the fringes of the lakes or smaller tributaries. There are also forested trails for birding in lowland forests. Between October and March, many migratory birds descend upon Tasik Chini. These birds have migrated south from the northern regions of Asia to escape the cold winters. It is an exciting period, as one never knows what feathered-visitor may appear on our soils!

Folk lore

According to local folklore, Tasik Chini is believed to be the site of an ancient Kampucean (Cambodian) city, similar to Angkor Wat. It is said that the city was flooded as protection against hostile invaders. These are some of folktales that surround these mystical lakes. Interestingly though, studies of aerial photos of Tasik Chini have revealed unusual line formations on the lake bottom, suggesting foundations of buildings or even canals. Linguists studying the language of the local orang asli have also pointed out that there are curious similarities between the language of the present day jakun and Cambodian Khmer communities. Whether you are interested in recreational fishing, nature or simply want an escape, Tasik Chini has a lot to offer. If you are planning a visit, there are several simple resorts (please don't expect a Berjaya-type resort!). Otherwise there are cheap lodgings to be found at Kampung Gumum or Kampung Chok. We stayed at Kijang Mas Gumum Chalet, a simple resort that is run by the orang asli cooperative. It is clean, and the family that run the resort are friendly and accommodating. Public busses are available from Kuantan to Tasik Chini, but it is probably easier to take an outstation-taxi. Otherwise, you will be better off with your own car. Boats can be hired from Kampung Gumum, or from your lodgings.