Located on the Kinabatangan River, Sukau offers a spectacular view of Bornean wildlife, REZA AZMI cruises up river in search of orang-utans, gibbons, and eight other primate species.

Written by Reza Azmi on 29 Apr 2002 with 0 comments. Be the first!

Sukau village is situated on the lower course of the Kinabatangan river, one of the longest rivers in Borneo. Cruising by village boats on this river and it's tributaries offers one of the best opportunities in Sabah to observe Bornean wildlife. Of particular interest is the rich primate fauna; this is one of only two areas in Asia with 10 primate species. These include several Bornean endemics (only found in Borneo), such as the Proboscis monkey, Maroon langur and the Bornean gibbon.

Kg. Sukau is also located on the boundary of an important protected area in Sabah, the Kinabatangan Wildlife Sanctuary. It is one of only a few protected wetland sites in Sabah, and is part of an important conservation area for primates, larger mammals (such as the Asian elephant) and other wild animals of the wetlands (otters, Storm's stork and the flat headed cat are notable examples).

River Safari

Observing wildlife needs a little patience, good common sense, luck, good timing and a pair of binoculars! Take a boat ride during the early morning (6 am) or late evening (4 to 6 pm), on the main river and it's tributaries. These are the best times for spotting wildlife along the Kinabatangan river and it's tributaries (start around 2-4 pm and cruise till dusk); there are good opportunities to observe resting proboscis monkeys which sleep along the river banks. It is suggested that one takes the cruise up to Tenegang Besar (starting around 2pm) or Resang. On your return journey, between 4pm - dusk is one of the river at the best times to observe wildlife.

Dawn along the Menanggul river (6.30am), followed by an excursion upriver to the Kelandaun ox-bow lake (there is a short circuit trail at the ox-bow lake). Back in Sukau by lunchtime, for it gets too hot for both man and other wildlife!

Limestone forests

There are two fascinating forested limestone hills nearby where gibbons and langurs can often be heard and sometimes sighted. One can be seen just as you enter the village area, on ones left. Another is Keruak cave, several minutes downriver from Sukau. This is worthwhile to visit as you will trek through one of the most peculiar of lowland forest in Sabah - seasonal freshwater swamp forest. Here bizarre breathing roots of Lophopetalum, strikingly buttressed trees of Dillenia and sprawling surface roots of Mallotus muticus can be found.

About 20 km away, is another important limestone massif, called Gomantong. Gomantong Hill is the largest limestone outcrop in the Lower Kinabatangan area, and contains at least nine caves. For centuries, the Gomantong Caves have been renowned for the valuable edible birds' nests made by two of the four species of swiftlets that roost in the caves. During the harvesting months, visitors may be able to witness the birds' nest collectors in action.

Getting there

Tourism activities in the villages is an ongoing process, for local updates you should check our very own Message Board.

Boats can be chartered from the villagers. Depending upon the destination, the rates can vary between RM 40 to RM 200 for a typical boat. Note, for safety reasons, village boats will usually take up to 6 persons only.

Apart from established tour lodges, accommodation is scarce in the village, although there are plans for basic sleeping facilities to be available soon in village homes (homestay) and the resthouse.

Food and meals are available in the village. For a simple, prepared meal the standard price is around RM5/meal, although this may vary. Or, if you are adventurous, find out what fresh food is available (river prawns, fish) and taste the different ways it can be cooked. Prices are quite reasonable. It is advisable you let the restaurant folk know you will want meals in advance, this will help them get fresh food and prepare a tasty meal.

Getting there is an adventure in itself!! Mini-buses can be fairly frequent, but are sometimes erratic, in and out of the village - so be prepared!

From Sandakan, one can find busses to Sukau waiting in front of the Genting Mas Supermarket. They normally leave Sandakan between 10 to noon. They cost RM 15 per person/one way. If in a group, one may also charter the whole mini-bus for RM120 one-way or hire a land-cruiser from Sandakan (RM 400). Alternatively, you could try local tour operators (link, listings) or an experienced guide.