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by Peggy Tee
The Galapagos Islands are an untouched paradise located off the coast of Ecuador. Sustainable tourism is key if a middle ground is to be found between the wildlife, the environment and the locals who live here. PEGGY TEE follows in the footsteps of Darwin as she sets out to explore the islands on an environmentally-friendly cruise.
"Ballena!" calls Livingstone excitedly, pointing off starboard into the distance. I follow his gaze, and sure enough, near the horizon, a thin spout of water can be seen. It is a southern right whale, and it is hunting, circling shoals of krill, blowing out jets of water as it surfaces to breathe. I am leaning over the rail of a cruise ship in the Galapagos Islands and the skies here are blue and unsullied.
The Galapagos Islands are known as Las Encantadas, or the Enchanted Islands, because of the treacherous currents and mists that caused 19th century sailors to never be sure if they were sailing into calm water or a hidden reef, but they are most renowned for their place in Darwin's theory of evolution. The archipelago comprises 15 main islands, each one containing its own unique flora, fauna and ecosystems. The Galapagos are a popular tourist destination, but while tourism has brought new wealth to Ecuador and helped to improve the quality of life for the locals who live here, it has also created new sustainability and environmental issues.
The best way to experience the Galapagos is through a cruise, and there are a variety of different cruises to choose from. A few factors influenced my choice - itinerary, price, crew's experience, safety, and environmental impact. Some cruises are certified by the SmartVoyager Sustainable Tourism certification scheme, an award indicating compliance with strict conservation standards. I chose a cruise on the MV Samba, owned and operated by Juan Manuel Salcedo, an accredited Grade III naturalist, guide, skipper, and native of these islands. While I was on the cruise, Juan was on board but off-duty, taking a break from guiding to spend time with his family.
"I was born and bred here; I learnt how the animals behave from first-hand experience. Growing up with iguanas on the front porch, swimming with sea lions and watching albatross chicks hatch - it was a great childhood!" Polite, soft-spoken and with a head of fly-away curls, Juan is passionate about environmental sustainability, which is why the Samba is equipped with a grey-water tank and solar panels.
"We collect the used water and store it until we get to the water treatment centre in Puerto Ayora. We don't simply dump waste water into the ocean," he explains. Juan also reminds us to go lightly on fresh water consumption, the most precious of cargos on any cruise ship. Solid waste is collected, sorted and then off-loaded at the end of each cruise at the Fabrico Valverde Environment Park recycling centre.
The solar panels are Juan's newest addition and are being rigged up on the deck. Once installed, they will be used to generate electricity, reducing the Samba's dependence on diesel. At night, the crew leaves only the pilot light on and makes sure all switches are turned off to conserve energy. Out on the water, miles away from the mainland, the skies are untainted by light pollution and one magical night I sit out on the wooden deck in the pitch darkness, counting shooting stars.
The Samba is a small vessel, outfitted for a total of just ten visitors. This compares favourably with the larger cruise ships that ply these waters, some of which ferry hundreds of passengers around the Galapagos Islands. "There are too many visitors," says Juan, as Mariana Vera, our guide, nods in agreement. "The bigger boats can sometimes take hours to visit just one island. The animals are exposed to a constant stream of people, which can be stressful on them. Our boat might be less fuel efficient than the big catamarans, but in the long run smaller operators have less impact on the wildlife." To try and reduce fuel consumption, El Kapitan, as Jose, our captain is affectionately called, often cuts the engine on days with good conditions and unfurls the sail to catch the wind in a bid to save on fuel.
Juan has also made it his policy to only deal with local suppliers. This channels tourist dollars straight into local pockets, spreading wealth amongst the small businesses on the islands. On a shore excursion one morning, we pass fishermen hauling in nets by hand, attended by a fluttering court of frigate birds wheeling and circling in the air, hoping for a handout. Much to the birds' disappointment, the morning catch became our evening dinner. Fresh, sustainably caught and beautifully prepared by Chef, the fish was delicious. "We stock up on fresh food and vegetables when we stop by the towns. There are small farms inland on Santa Cruz and Isabela. I deal with a few different vendors, depending on what they are selling on the day, but Chef usually decides on what to buy!" Juan grins as Chef gives him a thumbs-up.
On our first day, Mariana sits us down in the main cabin and explains the rules: keep one to three metres away from the wildlife at all times, no food or drink on the islands (water is an exception), no feeding the animals or removal of native plants, rocks or animal product, stay on the trails, no flash photography. Many of these are basic National Park rules, and Juan is serious about enforcing them. He regales us with a story of a hapless visitor who needed desperately to use the bathroom during a shore excursion. Juan was adamant that nothing, not even natural waste, was to be left on the island. He had to radio the Samba's zodiacs to come by to pick her up and bring her back to the boat to answer the call of nature instead. Amid peals of giggles, Mariana says, "We are given permission, not the right, to be here. We have to respect the animals and their environment. We mustn't change anything."
On Hood Island, a mockingbird approaches us fearlessly, cocking its head and appearing to be listening as Mariana explains that the birds have changed their behavior in the last five years in response to tourists. Irresponsible behavior such as feeding the birds - which is against the rules - have taught the cheeky feathered beasts that humans bring water, a scarce resource in these dry islands. Later, an intrepid mockingbird pecks at the lid of my water-bottle, demonstrating how human behavior can influence wild animals' responses - an undesirable effect from tourism.
Under a dark, dramatic sky, we set off towards the expansive lava fields of Isabela, the youngest and largest of the islands, overlooked by brooding volcanoes. There is less wildlife inland, where the environment is arid, rocky and harsh, save for a few delicately blooming cacti. I spot the careful curve of a pink flamingo's neck, feeding in a brackish marsh, and as we pick our way gingerly across the stony ground near the rock-pools, a movement in the water catches my attention. It is a white tipped reef shark, followed by a trio of graceful, spotted eagle rays.
It is off Isabela that we spot the southern right whale; there are also dolphins riding in the wake of our bow, blue footed boobies diving like arrows into the clear water, the curious heads of sea turtles coming up for a breath of air, and playful seals frolicking. Our first wet landing is on the snow white beaches of Española, and as we splash ashore we are greeted by waddling, inquisitive sea-lion pups, all unbearably adorable, with large doe-like eyes and soft, luxurious fur, barking for their mothers. Mariana reminds us to avoid the large, aggressive males, but it's difficult to do so when we encounter a large male sea-lion stretched out across our trail, enjoying the afternoon sun. He is complacently immovable against Mariana's ineffectual clapping and raised arms, and we cautiously detour around him as he watches us out of one half-closed eye, confident in his domain.
On Santa Cruz, we are introduced to Diego, a giant tortoise with a broken shell, "very popular with the ladies," says Mariana. He is part of the breeding program conducted by the Charles Darwin Research Centre, where dozens of football-sized juvenile giant tortoises are bred in comfortable pens before being released into the wild. There is someone else on Santa Cruz we have come to see. A celebrity in his own right, Lonesome George has his back to us when we arrive, his neck stretched up towards a green patch in the trees. George is the last Galapagos Pinta tortoise alive and the only one left of his species.
Sadly, George's fate is not unique on these enchanted isles. Many species in the Galapagos are considered endangered, like the mangrove finch and the marine iguana. If we are to preserve the magic of these islands, both visitors and operators must make conscious choices to protect the wildlife and environment here in the Galapagos, where the sunsets are technicolour, the animals unafraid, and the sea a deep dark blue. The days here are heavenly, filled with tall, clear skies, a fresh sea wind and unspoiled landscapes - a veritable Eden on earth.
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Original URL: http://www.wildasia.org/main.cfm/library/Galapagos
Published: 31 October 2011
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